A roofing installation guide is usually needed when people try to install their roofs themselves typically in a bid to cut down on roofing installation cost. One of the commonly preferred roof coverings are the metal roofing tiles, and this can be attributed to their durability, beauty, and relative affordability.
Introduced over fifty years ago, roofing tiles have continued to increase in popularity, with manufacturers coming up with different styles to suit the taste of homeowners and builders across the globe. Unlike the first set of roofing tiles introduced to the market that was prone to melt due to the effect of hot climates, the premium versions are made to withstand the impact of hot climates and last for more than half a century.
The time required for tile roofing installation is relatively shorter than what is obtainable with other roofing shingles installation. This is due in large part to the weight of the roofing tiles. This also helps the homeowner or contractor save some money as the structure required to support the roof does not necessarily need to be heavy.
Below is a brief guide on how to install roofing shingles with roofing installation instructions to assist you.
It is important to set out the roofing before the actual installation, and it is regarded as the foundation needed for a successful installation. It is also very important at this stage that the correct gauge is gotten right from the beginning, to avoid the unnecessary stress that could result from such errors. This also helps to ensure that the roofing shingles fit as you install them.
In most cases, set out pins are used to ensure the batons are fixed as accurate as possible, with a measuring stick used in marking the gauge up the rafter before the set out pins are subsequently driven in. This followed by the cutting of the batons in place before they are lifted clear for the building paper to be properly laid.
There is the possibility of reducing the time spent on the setting out phase by building a separate gauging rod that is smaller. The smaller gauging rod is for the fixing of the batons around hips and valleys, saving lots of time that could have been spent using a tape.
Cutting and Bending
This is usually the second stage of installing the roofings, and it involves the cutting of the roof tiles at terminations and intersections, leaving about 500mm bend in the file. The downturn or upturn helps to give the waterproof feature to the roof. It is also of great importance that the upturn is sufficient enough to avoid water being blown under the hip.
A simple but effective action will be to tape the jaws of the bender with a couple of duct tape layers, allowing the tiles to have firmer grip without causing any damage to the paint on the tile.
The marking and subsequent cutting of the valley at ground level helps to get a neater job. To make the task easier and the cutting process more efficient, it is advised that the tiles are laid on the ground just and they will be on the roof as opposed to cutting the tiles individually.
It is also important that the alignment of the tiles is correctly and tight. A bevel is used in marking the top and bottom course and the line along the length of the valley can be chalked by two persons, for a straighter line.
Laying the Tiles
This usually concludes the installation of the roofing and it has been discovered that the best way of laying the tiles is to lay them from the ridge down. The under lap should be laid into prevailing to ensure the effect of the wind on the roof is resisted as much as possible and stop the roof from lifting.
The first full top course should be laid out and fixed at the head of the tile to allow the subsequent row slide underneath the bottom. It is also important that foot traffic is considered and as applicable with other roofings, it should be at a minimum. A dent on the surface can be prevented by walking above the fixed baton.
You do not want issues with water or rain after the installation of the roofing. It is, therefore, important that particular attention is paid to the cutting in part of the final installation, for a watertight seal as opposed to the use of silicone to prevent water from getting in.